Going for the gold made easy

By Stephen Hlawaty
Outdoors Columnist

Every year about this time I'm reminded of why I live where I do. With its crisp, clean air, bluebird skies and gold-trimmed landscapes, autumn in Colorado can't be beat.

One of my most vivid Colorado autumn memories includes skiing the switchbacks of Buffalo Pass near Steamboat Springs. As I glided on 2 feet of fresh snow through stands of gold-flaked aspens, I was struck by the contrast of colors. The fallen aspen leaves that peppered the snow looked like tiny sunspots on a blanket of downy white. These darkened sunspots had absorbed more heat than their downy comforters and melted leafy shapes into the snow upon which they rested. With each gust of wind, flakes of gold rained down all around me. It was like being inside a giant snow shaker, or maybe more to the point, inside a giant bottle of Goldschlager.

No doubt the spirit of the season inspires countless others. Whether such inspiration draws from the approaching football season, the cooler temperatures, the oncoming harvest, the thrill of the hunt or the kindlier memories of homecoming, Colorado's golden days are ones to enjoy.

Spurred by shorter days and cooler nights, the colors of fall foliage may begin to turn as early as mid-August. Typically, the height of the fall foliage season occurs during the third and fourth weeks of September. During drought years, fall colors can develop earlier than normal as a consequence of slow tree growth. Such stress can also cause trees to drop their leaves sooner. A cooler, wetter summer may decrease the intensity of color. Otherwise, the ideal conditions for brilliant fall colors include warm, sunny days and crisp, clear evenings.

Like a kind of grand, slow-moving litmus test, fall colors begin in the higher elevations and work their way down the slopes. Aside from its sheer beauty, fall foliage offers us insight into some of the unique qualities of aspen growth. Aspen grow from existing root systems, and so, develop into groups or clusters ranging from several trees to several acres of trees that are genetically identical. As such, aspens are among the largest living organisms in the world. Because of their shared, single root system, it's not uncommon to see individual groups of aspen standing alongside golden, green, red, orange or bronze clusters.

The upper Laramie River basin provides some of the best potential fall foliage viewing opportunities in northern Colorado. One scenic drive links a portion of the upper Laramie River basin with the Cache la Poudre-North Park Scenic Byway (Colorado 14). For motorists driving west on Red Feather Lakes Road (County Road 74E), continue driving until Red Feather Lakes Road turns to dirt and becomes Deadman Road (County Road 162). Deadman Road climbs moderately and tops out at Deadman Hill at an elevation of 10,269 feet.

For 360-degree views, climb to the top of the Deadman Lookout Tower and enjoy the natural highs of another kind of gold rush. From there, continue driving on Deadman Road to the Laramie River Road (County Road 103). Twenty-five miles and many picnic and hiking spots separate the beginning of Deadman Road and its intersection with the Laramie River Road. Drive south on the Laramie River Road for 21 miles before intersecting with the Cache la Poudre-North Park Scenic Byway. The hillsides of the Poudre Canyon provide continued aspen viewing pleasure, as well as more picnic and hiking spots. Motorists can loop their trip by driving east on Colorado 14 for 20 miles and then north on the Boy Scout Camp Road (County Road 69) in the town of Rustic.

For those who prefer to hike, northern Colorado provides a variety of aspen-laden hiking trails. The Kelly Flats Trail links Colorado 14 with the Boy Scout Camp Road near the Goodell Corner and is accessible from either road. Hikers will pass Lonetree Mountain near the trail's highpoint, which offers views of Rocky Mountain National Park's Mummy Range. The section of trail that passes through Wintersteen Park makes for a great place to rest and have a snack.

More moderate and level hikes include the Mount Margaret Trail on the north side of Red Feather Lakes Road and the Lady Moon Trail directly to the south. What these trails lack in vistas they gain in aspen groves and meadows.

For the more adventurous, consult a map and pick your own route and destination. Either way, going for the gold was never so easy.