Proper fit is critical when blanketing a horse

By Marty Metzger
North Forty News

This October's premature cold and snows mounded human flesh with goose bumps. Shivering horse owners shouted, "My poor horse!" ... and ran to get blankets.

The truth is that nature gives season-appropriate coats to most creatures through shedding and growing. A healthy, normal horse doesn't need a blanket unless advanced age or human activity dictates it does.

Always-evolving equestrian endeavors have resulted in shaves and clips, mid-winter events (stock show) requiring slick coats, cold-weather show circuits in warmer climes, and ever-increasing longevity. Blankets required.

On the reverse side of loving and pampering, horse rescuers often acquire neglected, abused, malnourished or starved animals. They also rehab underweight bred mares, extremely young horses, and hot-weather equines shipped cross-country, sale to sale, ending up in wintry Colorado. Blankets required.

And, of course, sick or unusually cold-sensitive horses should be rugged up.

Once a need is recognized, clothing type and fit decisions must be made. It's insufficient to own a single, crusty old blanket that makes the rounds from horse to horse. Just as training and diet are individualized, so should blankets be.

Jen Wright, owner of Happy Horse Tack & Saddle Shop in Fort Collins, is a saddle fitter. She agreed that in an au natural vs. blanketed debate, less is more. But when blanketing becomes necessary, proper fit is critical.

Wright said poorly fitted blankets cause "see-saw"-type injuries to withers. These abrasive holes are such commonly seen afflictions that she called the frequency and severity a "chronic level."

Conformation types should dictate choice of blanket features, Wright said. For example, a Thoroughbred or other high-withered horse needs a Forward or European cut. Animals deeper through the shoulders (Morgans, Arabians, draft crosses) should wear a Quarter Horse cut.

Leg Arches, cross surcingles, and a third surcingle allow for added contouring without movement restriction. A scalloped front or overlapping chest panels help prevent water running down the front and shoulder rubs. Wright said that shoulder gussets, although great, aren't necessary as long as alternate front-end features don't inhibit movement.

To measure correct length on a blanket with a tail flap, pull back as far as possible. There should be room for a fist behind the tail. A too-short blanket will pull forward and rub the tail when a horse is grazing.

The drop of the blanket is ideally between elbow and knee. If it hangs below knees and hocks, it can easily be stepped on by a reclining horse rising.

Although a horse's individual asymmetry might cause a blanket to twist, there's no reason to accept that tipping, said Wright. Leg straps help but if the front fit is wrong, it all goes askew. And remember, better quality brands are more symmetrical in the first place.

The word "denier" represents thread count, weave, waterproofing and durability. Wright dubbed 400 to 600 denier "puny." Best grade is 1,200 to 1,600 denier.

Along with denier, protective coatings like Scotchguard and Teflon help repel stains and moisture. Technology has made nylon breathable; ballistic nylon offers top durability. It self-heals hole pokes. Polypropylene provides great wicking. Its waterproof and durability qualities can't be compromised. Some blankets come with one- to three-year warranties. But, for all their durability, good blankets are made to rip away in case of calamity.

Linings should be smooth, even coat-polishing, and wick moisture away from the horse. Wet, cold animals can quickly spiral into hypothermia. Good linings include nylon, cotton/nylon mesh and Quick Dri.

Neck attachments are usually sold separately and easily attach to the blanket front. Happy Horse gladly retrofits neck covers to mismatched blankets.

For light protection from rain/snow/wind during brief turnouts, Wright recommends a lightweight, breathable sheet to help keep a horse dry.

Cold-weather horse clothing includes turnout blankets, dress sheets, anti-sweat sheets, exercise rugs (under saddle or over rider's legs), blanket liners and wool rugs.

When blanketing a growing foal/yearling or broodmare with growing belly, gauge fit accordingly. Blankets should be removed, checked and adjusted as needed daily. At the very least, visually and tactilely monitor the coat and skin for sweat, abrasions and anomalies. Don't simply cinch up the blanket in the fall and tell what's underneath it, "See 'ya in the spring!"

With a new or young horse, be sure to keep a close eye out for trouble as the animal adjusts to wearing its toasty garb.

Regardless of durability or soil-retardant properties, blankets all eventually require cleaning or mending. Happy Horse offers washing and repair services, regardless of where a blanket was purchased.

And, while most commercial laundries don't allow horse apparel in their machines, North College Laundry welcomes blankets and even offers occasional coupons especially for them.

Tailor a blanket or sheet to the horse's shape and severity of weather. Maintain the covering and care for the coat beneath. And, remember to put on your own coat or those goose bumps will chase you all the way to springtime!