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February 2005

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Wine lovers explore the world of grapes

By Mark D. Moody
Wine Columnist

[See Wine List]

Your journey into the wide world of wines has been ... wonderful. You have sampled the Cabernets, Merlots, Chardonnays, even Pinot Noirs. You know there is so much more out there--the Malbecs from Argentina, Italian Primitivos and Spanish Rioja tempt you, but what are they?

In Italy it is known as Primitivo, and in the United States this racy red wine is called Zinfandel. Not to be confused with White Zinfandel, the amber colored sugary introduction to wine tasting. Zinfandel may be one of America's best exports. California produces this country's best "Zin" with lots of hearty fruitful flavor. This big wine is this writer's favorite.

When exploring the wine shelves, one country making some real impact this past year was Spain. A favorite is Rioja named after the high mountain valleys of Espania. A blend made in part from the tempranillo grape, Rioja is fruity but smooth with low acidity. This is a solid Spanish table wine.

Malbec was known as a supporting contributor to the red wines of the Bordeaux region. Its blending ability provides rich color and firmness. In Argentina, Malbecs are considered this South American country's finest offering. Malbec is a full-flavored lively red wine that's great with spicy Mexican cuisine.

Sauvignon Blanc also owes its origins to the Bordeaux area. Called Fume Blanc in America this crisp refreshing white wine is a great summer cooler. Fairly acidic versions from New Zealand are very popular. Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent accompaniment to chicken and fish.

Australia's biggest deal in the wine world is the Shiraz. This red wine, also known as Syrah, is used as a blending grape for some lively French wines. Shiraz has a spicy taste that has been described as brawny. The state of California has begun to produce notable Shiraz, but the best are still from Down Under.

The process of blending different grape varieties is not new to the wine industry. Sherry, most cognacs and champagnes are products of a blending method. The logic in many cases goes something like this: The quality will be greater collectively than each grape would be individually. Each grape variety brings something to the process whether it be color, body, acidity or other traits. For the larger wine producers, blending can also increase the volume of a real winner. Typically, blends are more affordable.

What follows is our list of top wines under $12.99 gleaned from scores of selections we tasted over the past year. No fussy criteria are necessary to make our list other than availability, price and a distinctive taste. The latter is admittedly subjective. Our likes have matured over the years from sweet to mellow and now reside somewhere around full bodied.

Vintage years and country or state of origin are included to aid in locating any of the choices. It has been our experience that if a vintage year is no longer available, the subsequent year in most cases will be a winner as well. Exceptional once in a lifetime vintages do exist, like the vintage port of 2000, but are relatively uncommon. Enjoy!

When shopping, note that some of the selections on the higher end of our price point get on the list due to sales that frequently allow us to savor choices from the next tier of wines.


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