Transplanting tomatoes and peppers requires care

By Kathy Hatfield
Gardening Columnist

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The frost-free date is quickly approaching, which means it will soon be time to plant tomatoes and peppers outdoors. Thoughtful preparation will help to produce a healthy and plentiful crop.

There are scores of varieties available, with fruits in many sizes, shapes and colors. When you are buying plants, consider factors like disease resistance, days to maturity and size of the mature plants. Do you want tomatoes and peppers for salads, to make salsa, to can or dry? It's fun to try different varieties, and by doing so, you help to ensure that you'll have a bountiful crop even if some varieties fail to produce well.

If you haven't yet purchased plants, resist the urge to buy tall and spindly ones or those with blooms or fruit already formed. Pinch off any existing flowers or fruit before transplanting so that the plant will put its energy into vegetative growth and you will ultimately have good yields of fruit.

Even when the weather has warmed to that which tomatoes and peppers prefer, they should not be planted directly into the garden without a transition period. Because they have led a pampered life in a sheltered environment, they need to be hardened off to acclimate them to life in the garden.

A week or two before transplanting them, set the plants outside for an hour or two in light shade, protected from the wind. After a couple of days increase the amount of time and exposure to sunlight. Continue this treatment every day, gradually moving the plants into full sun. During this time, the plant is building up its cell walls to adapt to cooler temperatures and more intense sunlight. When nighttime temperatures are not freezing, leave them out at night as well. If cold weather threatens, keep the plants indoors. After a week or two of gradually exposing them to the outdoors, the plants will be ready for the garden.

Planting tips

Choose a weed-free prepared garden area that will receive sun for at least eight hours a day. It is best if the area has not grown tomatoes or peppers the previous year since the soil may harbor diseases that could affect your plants.

There are various theories on spacing of tomato and pepper plants, and not all varieties require the same amount of space between plants. Check the recommendations for each variety if you are unsure of spacing. Before transplanting, water the plants well to reduce transplant shock and to easily remove them from their pots with the least amount of root disturbance.

On a relatively calm and cloudy day, begin by preparing the hole for each plant. Dig a hole larger than the size of the plant's root ball. Amend the soil for each hole with a handful of compost. A chemical fertilizer that is high in nitrogen can promote foliage growth with little fruit production, so if you use chemical fertilizers, it is better to add too little, rather than too much. Water the hole before putting the plant into it to prevent the roots from contacting dry soil.

Set the plant deeper into the hole than it was in its container. Tomatoes and peppers will grow roots along a buried stem. If your plants have become leggy from being in their pots too long, you can remove all but the top leaves and plant the stem sideways in a trench to prevent it from breaking. The plant will also benefit from being in the warmer soil close to the surface. The plant will straighten up as it develops a stronger stem and root system.

Add a collar made of heavy paper around the stem of the plant to curb cut worm activity. Bury the collar about one inch below the soil surface and let it extend an inch above the soil, completely surrounding the stem.

Cover the roots with soil and gently press the soil around the base of the plant. Form a shallow soil bowl around the stem to contain water, and then water deeply. Keep an eye on the plants to determine watering frequency. Once the soil has thoroughly warmed, it is a good idea to mulch the plants with a thick layer of straw or other organic mulch to reduce watering and weeding frequency. Using soaker hoses can be an efficient way to water and will help to prevent cracks on tomatoes that may be caused by overhead watering.

Studies have shown that tomatoes and peppers grown in our alkaline western soils benefit from the addition of Epsom salts. The magnesium in Epsom salts is necessary for the production of chlorophyll and strong cell walls and may help reduce blossom-end rot. To be on the safe side, have your soil tested for magnesium deficiency. If necessary, you can purchase Epsom salts at the grocery store and spray your tomato and pepper plants with a mixture of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.

For additional information on growing tomatoes and peppers, or for a source of unusual transplants, e-mail gardening columnist Kathy Hatfield at ocwildflowers@frii.com.