Saving seed fun for all ages

By Ted Schaaf
Gardens on Spring Creek

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It seems appropriate to end this season of articles right where we began in March, with seeds. As you are harvesting the fruits of your labor, this is also a great time to harvest seed for next year's crops. Seed harvesting is very easy and a great project to engage in with your children. Here's how it's done.

Starting out

Perhaps the easiest garden vegetables to collect seed from are beans, lettuce, peas, peppers and tomatoes.

For beans, allow the pods to dry brown. This occurs about six weeks after the eating stage. Pods will snap open to expose the beans.

Once lettuce begins to bolt (go to seed), seed stalks form. Some outside leaves, though more bitter at this stage, can still be harvested for eating. After the seed stalks have flowered, wait two to three weeks for them to dry, then cut the entire top off the plant. Hang it upside down in an open paper bag.

For peas, allow pods to dry on the plant before harvesting. This happens four weeks or so after the eating stage. If frost threatens, pull the plant and hang it indoors until the pods are brown. Separate peas from the pod by hand.

Pepper seeds can be harvested, but keep in mind that pepper plants cross pollinate with other varieties that are grown nearby. The first step in saving pepper seeds is to harvest mature, fully ripe peppers. Bell peppers are ripe when they turn red. The next step is to cut off the bottom of the fruit then reach inside to strip the seeds from the central cone. Finally, spread the seeds on a paper towel and allow them to dry in a cool location. The pepper seeds are dry enough when they break if folded.

Tomatoes, especially the heirloom varieties, will also cross pollinate. To ensure seed purity, different heirloom varieties need to be separated by at least 100 feet. Modern varieties, however, only need to be separated by about 10 feet.

To save tomato seeds, cut ripe tomatoes into halves at their equator. Gently squeeze out the jelly-like pulp that surrounds the seeds and place it in a jar. Add a small amount of water. Loosely cover the jar and stir its contents once per day for three days. A layer of fungus will appear. After three days, fill the jar completely with water. Let the contents settle then pour out the water along with the pulp and immature seeds that float to the top. Repeat this process until the water is almost clean and seeds line the bottom of the jar. First pour the clean seeds into a strainer and then onto a paper towel and allow them to dry completely.

Storing seeds

To store seeds, place them into a small paper bag. Don't forget to write the name of each type of seed and the date stored on each bag. To keep out humidity, it's best to store the bags in an airtight container. To extend the life of your seeds, be sure to place them in a cool location. I store my seed in the refrigerator, but a basement will work just as well.

It has been my experience that most seed will remain viable for at least three years. After that time, seed germination will begin to decline.

Next spring, you can check the germination of your seeds by placing some of them in a moist, rolled up paper towel. After a week, unroll the paper towel to see how many seeds have sprouted.

Saving, storing, and passing seed on to family and friends are great ways to share your passion for gardening with others. For those of us who are parents, they are also great ways for us to teach sustainability to our children. Their lives depend on it.

Happy gardening.

Ted Schaaf is the horticulturist for Fort Collins' Gardens on Spring Creek, located off Centre Avenue about a half mile south of Prospect Road.